Shango- Making the Change from Coffee to Creole
Shango. The voodoo God of thunder and lightning. A name that signifies virility and echoes the mystique of New Orleans. And now a new culinary experience in what was until recently the Coffee Bean Caf.
In 1994 Jim Guarino and his family opened the Caf on Main Street in the University District. At that time the area was hopping. But with the student population increasingly drawn toward Chippewa Street, business started to decline.
Then, two years ago, Jim's passion for Creole cooking led him to serve a New Orleans-style brunch. Only a year later Artvoice named it "Best Brunch in Buffalo."It was very popular,"says Jim. "It seemed a natural progression for the business."
In January the Coffee Bean Caf closed its doors for renovation. The center counter was converted into a warm and intimate bar. Tabletops were wrapped in copper, soft lighting was added, and the space was reconfigured to be more conducive to a restaurant. On Fat Tuesday, the transformation complete, Shango opened its doors.
The bar is a great place to relax, but don't expect standard fare. Microbrews are the order of the day with four on tap and bottles ranging from Buffalo's own Aviators Red to California's Arrogant Bastard. The wine selection features 15-16 by the glass and many more by the bottle, including offerings from Chile, New Zealand, and South Africa.
The food is equally distinctive. Jim describes it as innovative Creole Cajun. "I like to take some Creole ingredients and techniques like blackening,"says Jim. "We incorporate that into our food while remaining sensitive to local tastes."
The results are exquisite. From traditional gumbo to pecan-crusted catfish in a Creole mustard sauce, everything tantalizes. Spring rolls stuffed with avocado and sun-dried tomatoes make a perfect appetizer. For a great blend of textures and tastes try the prosciutto and pear salad with glazed pecans. The penne in Cajun cream sauce is loaded with seafood and andouille sausage. The blackened tuna steak, served over roasted sweet potatoes, plays well off a horseradish truffle oil vinaigrette. For dessert I recommend Shango's bananas foster. This treat of flambed bananas and ice cream is worth a trip in itself.
With entrees ranging from 10 to 17 dollars, Shango is comparable to other fine Buffalo restaurants. Portions are very generous so be prepared to feast. Reservations are highly recommended.
Shango | 3260 Main Street 716.837.2326 | Tue-Sat lunch 11-3, dinner 5-10 (5-11 Fri/Sat) Bar open 5-12.
Sunday Brunch 10-3.
